A little break at noon, then a Building tour with Isabel, another good guide. And what a treat! I had her all to myself. The story of the building is fascinating, with the appointment of a Catholic architect in a very Protestant-majority country. Many aspects of the building are cathedral-like and it was controversial at the beginning. Many changes have been made over the years, but this restoration aimed to restore it back to the 1884 looks but with some ingenious and complex modernization as well.
Of course we started in the new atrium. It's hard to imagine the original courtyards covered up with floors of the building; they have all been removed. This new "basement" space is open and light with its glass roof. The original iron girders support the ceiling and are visible to all. The giant new "chandelier" has all sorts of modern technology features, from fancy lighting to grooves in the panels that diminish the sound to security features. The most modern technology is "embedded" underground around the new building.
One of the entrances from the street
Passage from atrium to entry to galleries
One of the two "chandeliers"
Isabel led us up through this doorway, explaining that the collection originally was divided by category, with separate entries and the subject indicated in the sculpture above. We did talk about what this referred to, but I've forgotten, alas.
As we passed the Night Watch she showed us on her iPad the device that is used to remove the painting. I never thought about how it gets in and out! But of course it had to be moved during the restoration and also during the war. A system is built in that can haul it out.
In the gallery behind NW there's a window through which you can see the length of the Museumplein, with the VanGogh and Stedelijk museums to the right and the Concertgebouw beyond. We're looking through the mesh advertising the Rembrandt show here.
One of the rooms that fascinated me was fairly small and totally new, with colored glass donor recognition panels in the window. And a ceiling full of stars. The design was dizzying. Isabel said they were all hand-painted on the ceiling, not on a canvas. Argh! But it does give a lovely effect to the room if you don't look at it too long.
Of course by the end of the tour I headed to the café for delicious tomato soup (and bread).
and a nice view of the bicycles passing by on their street!
Off, then, to the Anne Frank house. On the walk there I passed a houseboat with a green roof and skylights:
I had never been to the Frank house since the lines were always longer than my patience. Today the lines weren't so long, but the morning guide's gift of a back-door invitation still saved time and I got to start immediately on the path through the house. No photos were allowed, alas. Of course we all know the story, and there were good exhibits that brought it to life. And a museum to spend time in as well. It was almost 5 when I left.
It was time for a Dutch pancake experience, and the one I found the highest ratings on was just down the canal.
If you can increase the size of the menu you'll see the amazing variety of pancake options. I asked what was most typically Dutch and she said apple and bacon or apple and cheese - combining sweet and savory.
I got the apple and bacon.
It looked way to big to eat, but I did. It was very
light and full of apples. I had no idea what
to put on it. The syrup looked more like molasses than maple syrup. And powdered sugar seemed odd. Across the aisle two Japanese girls got big dessert pancakes. They took selfies and then each other. And then I offered to take one of the two of them together, and did. Then they started
giggling and gesturing with one of their cameras. I finally figured what they wanted - me in the picture with them. So I got the server
to accomplish the task.
I have to remember when I smile to push my eyelids up so I don't look like I'm blinking. Oh well.
5:30, and time to head back. I stopped at Starbucks for yogurt, figuring that
, with the free tea in my room, would be a smarter breakfast tomorrow. Can you
read at the
big message on their wall?
And I stopped and chatted with a fellow at the big Apple store - with the feeling of the one in NY with curving plexiglass steps to the second level.
After a break in the room I decided to do the nighttime canal boat tour. I was in the mood to soak up some more of the city, even if it lacked narrative.
The boat moved along fairly quickly, so it was almost impossible to take in-focus photos as we passed a number of houseboats with open curtains so we could see the furnishings and the residents relaxing.
The hotel from the canal
The Rijksmuseum at night
The bikers get their own light system.
I bet you can understand why I put writing up this day off to the end. It was so
full and I was so tired at the end of it. According to my Fitbit, I had walked 18,245 steps.