Delhi Day 3 - Sunday, February 3

 We're delighted we were able to spend three full days in Delhi, as we got to see most of the priorities on our list (I'm disappointed to miss the early-morning wholesale flower market; I'd love to have had a spa experience here). Today we focused on museums, beginning with a fascinating museum dedicated to village crafts. We arrived when it opened at 10 and discovered it was built like a village, itself. In addition to small buildings brought in from or reproducing typical village houses, a large porch-like area  featured artisans at work. I was immediately unhappy that I had so little cash. While there's a fine government-run shop here, of course the artists could only take cash. Our day was too full to ask the driver to come and get me and take me to an ATM machine! Of course that saved me a lot of money and an even bigger suitcase challenge.

I should note that for all the perfection of this hotel, they can't control the all-night Metro work, which made my first two nights wakeful. I figured Saturday would be great, as surely the workers would have it off - and they did. But the toilet ran and ran each time it was used. Oh well, life is real, no matter what efforts you make, right?

Before we got to the artisans, we found that the exterior walls of the buildings all had roof-high paintings done in various traditions. In addition, we enjoyed several galleries featuring various aspects of traditional crafts.

A reconstructed haveli (rich man's house) gateway with fine carving

After about a half hour of having the place all to ourselves, thousands of school girls began arriving, followed by varied tourists - artsy metrosexuals, Indian families, a couple from Charlottesville VA.

Double-click and note the "hemline" of his jacket

 These girls insisted I try their lunches when I showed interest in what they were eating. I did have one of the marinated chickpeas...very delicious. But the others were macaroni and I could see the bits of red pepper!

Heaven and hell, according to Islamic belief  - 19th c.

"Hair dryer - Punjab - 18th c." !!!

He does remarkable work on palm leaves- cutting & inking designs.

She makes jewelry and decorative items using ti grass

K had a good time talking with these school girls

Then it was back to the hotel for another bowl of their fine soup. (roast tomato for him, mushroom cappuccino for me, 2 teas = c. $40). On the way, I was pleased to snap a fine elephant. Across the Metro construction "street" in front of the hotel there's an interesting modern office building.

Off again at 2:30, through the area with walled compounds around big estates, government housing and attractively landscaped traffic circles, on our way to the National Museum. There we found interesting people outside and interesting figures inside.

Saraswati: goddess of learning and wisdom - 12th c.

Devotees worshipping phallic representation of Shiva - 12th c.

We really wanted to see two more museums, so stayed here just 40 minutes. On to the Nehru Memorial Museum, in the huge estate his family owned for many decades.

This last will and testament, reproduced on a huge scale, was fascinating reading. I hope you can read it if you double-click.

The house has been a memorial for decades and has inadequate funding, I assume, to make it a first-class memorial. No entry fee, no real welcomer; mainly you [try to] follow a path of occasional arrows leading you through the vast second floor with varying exhibits. Gifts from heads of state. Rooms furnished as they were (but hard to believe, they're so modest). And many many many rooms with copies of newspaper clippings and photos that tell his history - and the story of India's independence movement. It as definitely interesting, and we did our best to take it all in and still leave time for a quick tour of Indira Gandhi's  museum. Both his daughter, Indira, and her son, Rajiv, became India's leaders, and both were assassinated. But what will also stick in my mind is a story our guide told us yesterday: Nehru's family was so wealthy that when he went to university (was it the Sorbonne, or in England?) there was a car and driver waiting for him at each of the four possible campus exits he might take! Mobile phones have certainly changed our choices.

The "back yard." There's also a library and an observatory! 

The front grounds had many of these beautiful shrub/trees

The Indira Gandhi museum was quite different - on a smaller scale with small galleries, lower ceilings, more modern exhibits. And it was packed. But since the path was 1-way and clearly defined, we could move along easily. We were the last ones out at closing time, grateful to have spent as much time as we did there. Of course since Rajiv's family also shared the large house, it was also his story...and very Kennedyesque.

As close as I get to a tiger

Back of house

Sari/shoes/purse she wore when murdered by 2 security guards 10.31.84

The last few metres of her walk have been covered with crystal suggesting a river in flow.
A sheet of clear glass marks the spot where she fell.

Love the guard outfit!

Back to the hotel...and realizing I should include a photo of a bus in memory of the raped/murdered woman recently in the news. It seemed so bizarre to read that she had taken a private bus...but our time here has taught us many things, including that bus systems in cities are very complex. While Delhi just recently has bought smart new buses for their system, the tradition has long been for private companies to run old buses; in most cities there are no public buses..

Back in our lovely hotel home, I was delighted to find wedding preparations going on in the garden. Very different color scheme, much less spent on flowers, this time a band with thumping audio, two "living rooms" instead of one. But again huge.

Of course I immediately asked what time the guests would arrive, and made a dinner reservation accordingly.  Our favorite server even pulled up the screening so we had an open view. Unfortunately, my camera doesn't have a lens designed for great long-distance shots. But this will give you a sense of the stage, where the bride and groom seemed to sit or stand the entire two hours, being photographed.

Having learned to trust the wonderful service staff here, I ordered an Indian entrée, the one tandoor chicken dish on the menu that wasn't spicy. A perfect ending to a really wonder-full and joy-full 2-1/2 weeks exploring India.

On Monday, off at 11 to the airport, a 2-hour flight to Mumbai, a hotel stay until 9, back to the airport at 11, with plane scheduled to head to Amsterdam at 1:25 a.m. The fun is behind us. And the daily blogs. But I'll definitely be adding a few notes in the week to come. And I'll figure how to post the rickshaw ride video. Thanks for joining us on this journey!