A day in Agra - Wednesday, January 30

Today reminded me a bit of my two trips to China with two visits to the Great Wall: each time the fog was so thick I couldn't see the wall 10 feet in front of me! Our grand plan was to see the sun rise on the Taj Mahal from across the river early this morning and then to see the sun set on it in front this afternoon. Of course we understand the weather conditions were perfect for both last week. The happy surprise was that there was so much to see in Agra, in addition the Taj, and we enjoyed a very excellent day.

Our guide and driver were waiting at 6:45 this morning to whisk us off to the garden across the river from the Taj. The streets were actually fairly quiet at that hour, with vendors hauling carts long distances. Two other people got to the site before us - a professional photographer taking a vacation from his prize-winning position as a combat photographer for the US Air Force and his guide. They turned out to be very good company in our long wait for any lifting of the fog. At 8:01 we were able to confirm the dome was actually there. You may have to double-click on the image to believe me.

Our guide and bag carrier (while I walked atop a high wall for photos)

 At 8:15 it lifted some more.

By 8:30 we figured it wasn't going to get any better. The guide took a now-favorite photo. (Again, you may need to double-click to see the Taj.)

Outside the gate a little goat demanded breakfast. The mother let him slurp briefly, then pushed him away.

While we were on that side of the river, it made sense to visit the "Baby Taj," another tomb monument that pre-dates the Taj Mahal. Begun in 1622 by the daughter of a Lord Treasurer of the Mughal Empire, as a tribute to her father, it's an exquisite gem. From entry gate in red sandstone with beautiful geometric stone inlay to the garden and tomb building itself, the stone inlay work is stunning. The Persian influence, thanks to the loving daughter (also a royal wife), was to have long-lasting impact on architecture in India.

Inside the main building we found the most exquisite pietra dura work, as well as remarkable fresco painting.

Our knowledgeable, passionate, thoughtful guide made sure we didn't miss ceiling details - high up and dark so that only my fine camera revealed its real beauty:

Back toward the hotel at 9:25, crossing the river I could see a women doing laundry on a sand bar in the middle.

Our guide said men on bikes like this are coming in from the countryside with big cans of fresh milk from their buffaloes.

One block had monkeys crawling and climbing all around, and this posse gathering by the street. The Air Force photographer's guide told us monkeys are a terrible problem at his house: they come in the kitchen, open the refrigerator door, take what they want, and leave the rest to spoil with the door open...and last week one bit his mother, and she had to have rabies shots!

We've seen a number of carts piled high with shoe boxes. Our guide said they're the product of tiny "factories," and are being ferried to shoemakers for packaging!

Back at the hotel at 9:38 for the routine security check (he runs the mirror under the car). The breakfast buffet was generally unappetizing, but my omelet was actually the best ever. Maybe because I was so hungry?

There's a little shopping arcade with about 6 typical tourist ware shops at the hotel entry. So while K caught a few zzzs I explored it. But sadly it was like just about everywhere on this trip. Tourism is down, the merchants are desperate for sales, and they're exquisitely skilled at unpackaging their goods and displaying many beautiful things in a few seconds....And it always makes me uncomfortable even though they aren't pressuring. I did buy a good book on Agra and the Taj, and made a quick tour of the other offerings. Many things I'd like to buy but have no need for.

Next I asked a handsome gentleman in the lobby about the hotel property (c. 35 years old); I had read it has 20+ acres of gardens. He led me on a very fine tour of gardens, tennis court, mini-golf area, pool, huge bigger-than-football field for cricket etc., outdoor party venues, and the steps to an "observatory" for viewing of the Taj Mahal!

Back on the road at 11. Next stop: Agra Fort. This trip has redefined my notion of fort, as all the ones we've seen have included fabulous palaces. The tourism part of this one occupies just 20% of the property; the Army uses the rest. Here's the entrance gate:

Monkeys were scrambling around the entry.

I thought they were kind of cute until we got inside and saw a big bruiser (in the middle) attack a female, biting her tail. She squealed in pain and retreated to the top of the wall where she stroked the tail.

The complex is larger than I imagined, with one beautiful space after another. Here are some favorite visual memories:

It was in one of these elegant buildings - with a view of the Taj Mahal -  that the builder of the Taj Mahal was imprisoned by his son!

Back then to the ever-fascinating streets where we saw more hard-working men and animals.

And next to one of the "required" stops in Agra, a "warehouse" of  extraordinary pietra dura tabletops etc. set up for demonstrations to tourists. Certainly, the stone carving and the pietra dura work on the buildings here are most exquisite and will remain most treasured memories. We had admired a friend's lovely treasure from a trip here, and actually looked forward to the possibility of a purchase. The demonstration was interesting; I keep trying to imagine the thousands of Persian artisans working on the Taj Mahal for c. 20 years. Here are the stones used: agate, carnelian, jasper, turquoise, lapis lazuli, malachite. And a finished piece the salesman used to show it's impervious to Coke spills.

After a very long time we found a little piece that we think can work at home. And then the negotiating began. They asked a ridiculous price and although we got it down a good bit, I'm sure we paid twice what we should. I have only limited energy for bargaining. And to get it down enough to consider it, we agreed to take it home as a carry-on (they will ship it to our airport hotel in Mumbai). This will be interesting. Wish us luck!

Next, our driver and guide were ready for lunch and we weren't. The guide suggested an "embroidery museum" while they ate. When we pulled up to a gate behind which was the most modern, handsome building I'd seen, I knew there was more to the story. It turned out to house an extraordinary jewelry business - 68 craftsmen working on the 3rd floor, our welcomer said, in time, and a second floor with case after case of the most beautiful jewelry with fine gem stones. But yes, they did have extraordinary large wall embroideries set with colored stones (long story) and the nice man must've spent 40 minutes showing us embroidery before he offered to show us jewelry. I always hate these experiences but like what comes with them - the seeing - and this time I managed to escape after trying on some beautiful little items...without purchasing. He was very nice, and never pressured me. Maybe if we hadn't succumbed to the marble piece just before I would've asked K to spend some money; it just didn't seem important to me now.

Back to the interesting streets and snaps from my window.

And on to the Taj Mahal. Of course the air has not been clear all day, and the sky has sort of hazy clouds hanging near the horizon. This place is certainly geared up for tourists. We entered the gate for non-Indians. That required being dropped off at a building 1 kilometer away, boarding a [nice] shuttle for a ride half that distance, then walking to the entry where we stood in gender-separated lines labeled "High-Value Ticket Holders." to wait our turn for security checking. Then more walking to the beautiful entry garden and gate:

And then a lovely long visit to the familiar-to-all interior, with the exquisite white marble building with its phenomenal pietra dura work, the reflecting pool, the matching side buildings (mosque and guest house).

What I never realized before getting into the details of this trip was that the surface is totally covered with carved white marble flower panels and delicate pietra dura inlay. I was delighted the crowds weren't at their weekend worst, and the visit was totally delightful, especially with our guide's reverence for and pride in the building.

Here's a view across the river (it will fill when the monsoon comes in June) to our morning vantage point, from the walled terrace on the river side:

A corner view, and a look back toward the entry gate:

The "guest house" building, in red sandstone, has equally exquisite details:

There was a glimpse of color in the sky when we looked toward the west...but not enough to make the reflection on the front of the building magical.

So we headed back to the car. While I waited for the men to use the toilet, a cute pair of kids came up, the brother asking if he could take my picture. There definitely are few blue-eyed hat-wearing Americans around here today! So of course I took theirs, too.

On the walk back to the shuttle, a Coca Cola photo-opp and one more animal shot.

Back at the hotel, rose petals in the bathroom.

Then a bizarre experience. I wanted to eat outside the hotel. That required our driver transporting, as crossing a street here on foot would be life-threatening. The guide, who had gone home now, had recommended a place not too far from the hotel where we could have good NON-Indian food, and I thought explained to the driver where it was. I had checked on it, and looked at the route, on my computer. The driver took us in that direction, and let us out at a place that was not identified as "Indiana." He insisted this was where we were to eat, and it appeared we were expected. (While we do have "conversations," his facility with English is limited; that has never been a problem. This time I couldn't figure out how we could get him to understand where we had thought we were going.) This was the most modest place, with torn vinyl chair at one side of the table. No one else ate the entire hour we were there. And the sweet young man with limited English who assured us he understood we could eat nothing hot or spicy watched over us from 15' away the entire time. It was a fixed [Indian] menu, with a cheap price - c. $12 for about 10 different dishes Of course half the things were too spicy for us to do more than move around the plate. One amusing note in an altogether extraordinary day!

On the way home, it was obvious from bright lights and music that two weddings were underway nearby And from our hotel entry I did a little video of fireworks shot from next door! A fine ending to a very full day.