Amsterdam 7: Monday 1.26

Ah, the curiosities of modern travel. KLM manages signing in and boarding on Delta flights from Amsterdam. When I went to check my seat this morning, it was in a new location, with no options indicated (even though I knew there were other seats open). Annoying. To be addressed at the gate.

I happily got to the Rijksmuseum at 9:30, and admired the hard planting work of the garden laborers in Wednesday morning's 30º.

Of course after I made my reservations I learned of the fabulous Rembrandt show to open next month, and was reminded every time I approached the museum:

The atrium was empty but for groups of guards chatting with each other. Joy! I enjoyed wandering for awhile, re-visiting favorite Rembrandts and Vermeers (they have 3) before the groups and other tourists arrived. Did you know the Night Watch was mis-named and that once it was "cleaned up" and the bright colors emerged it was clear it did not portray a night scene?! Below are my two favorite figures in it. The hand of the man at left is like a 3-D scene, reaching out of the canvas. And - I know it's hard to see - but the little fringe on the left arm of the man to the right also looks 3D. I can't come back to this enough. I'm sorry I didn't take any photos of the Hall of Honor, set up by the Catholic architect like a cathedral with Night Watch at the far end and little "chapels" on each side, originally with curtains pulled back on each.

The first group to appear was this lively bunch of boys with a terrific teacher who got them all engaged.

So wonderful that Rembrandt did a whole painting on peacocks! I've never seen it before this week.

And a favorite Vermeer.

Then it was time for a cappuccino - tied for best ever with one in a little Italian mountain town 14 years ago! - in the café. 

There, I pulled up the museum app on my phone and realized the "multi-media tours" are right there, and all I needed was ear buds, which of course were available for €1.5 (but not nearly as good as mine; oh well). There were many tours to choose from, and I wished I had figured it out earlier. They provided a choice of shorter (10 objects) or longer (20) with extended info available for each one. There were clever animations on some and a variety of other well-done pieces. The signage by the objects is very good, but this is really excellent. So I did the 19th century one and wished I had another day to do all. This little terra cotta statue of Rembrandt was a sculptor's recommendation for the city's commission - but they didn't like him sitting down. His second proposal was the one actually produced in bronze, photo'd yesterday.

The iconic Dutch windmill. The painter turned the canvas upside-down to get the reflection just right.

I thought this little guy (maybe just 8" across) was a hoot.

More pleasurable wandering, then a repeat of the tomato soup, and then one more group tour, with one of my Wednesday guides. I had to share her this time with a couple from NY.  This was a tour focusing on the the Golden Age of the Netherlands - the 16th century. Of course I had been in all the galleries and looked at all the paintings etc. but I enjoyed hearing her commentary anyway.

Then more wandering, including a gallery full of remarkable ship models.

Then an astonishing collection of tiny silver treasures - made for the fabulous dollhouses that very wealthy women assembled to show off their wealth, so the guides say. 

These are really LITTLE!

A nice section on jewelry included an array of elegant pieces.

Some beautiful textiles, too, including a large lace tablecloth.

By 3:30 my head was full. Time to say au revoir. On the canal side,  a big Calder!

And a nice view of the original entry, with the bike "street" thru the middle returned to the bikers.

I planned for days to stop at the beautiful leather goods store between the hotel and the museum, maybe to treat myself. I checked the window in the morning, but at 4 it was closed - behind a plastic construction curtain on the other side of the sidewalk!

I finished packing and got ready to go to my #1 most memorable meal of the week, one of the great productions of my life. (Johannes ranks up there, but this topped it.) Seline Dreifus had told me VisaandeSchelde was the best fish restaurant in Amsterdam. Indeed, it's always - I bet - fully booked;  they even called my phone to confirm. But getting there was a low point in the week. The hotel summoned a taxi. The driver was a nice Pakistani (I guess) whose new GPS didn't work. He was dumb enough to tell me he had a whiplash in an accident 5 years ago and even if he goes the same place 1000 times, he doesn't remember where it is. He spent the rest of the journey talking to another man with the same language. We eventually got there. He cut the meter off at €15.45. I paid him €10. Funny - the next guy to get in the taxi was a fragrance rep from NY. When I got back to the Marriott to report the problem the front desk people made huge apologies, called the company, offered me a fruit basket, etc.

The restaurant decor was smart, including clever nautical decor on a tiled wall. It had probably 60-70 seats and was full at 7 pm. A team of 5 worked exceptionally well together - and it turns out they had been together almost 3 years. They all spoke good English, were friendly and helpful, did everything - took orders, brought food, cleared dishes.

On the table: a little oil, salt flakes, pepper, butter. Even the napkin had a fish hook embroidered.

A heavy metallic menu

The food was creative, beautiful, and delicious. I chose the 4-course meal. This is what came.
First,  an amuse: Frothy celeriac soup - truffle + Mackerel - celeriac - mushroom, to be eaten from L to R

Starter 1: Gamba structures - Asian style preparations - cream of avocado - gamba and coconut vinaigrette

Starter 2 - Scallop - barley - beetroot - chicken - frothy sauce of chicken, cockle and curry

Main course: "Catch of the day" [Norwegian cod] - cream of parsley root - pulled beef - kale - red wine sauce

I chose the selection of cheeses over a sweet dessert

Then of course I had to go look at the kitchen and meet the charming chef

On the way out I took a picture of the ceramic underside of the copper hood over...I don't know what; I didn't look down!

So you see it was a perfect ending to a wonderful week! Even a very nice taxi ride back to the Marriott.